The Thread | Article8 Slays a Week - The Runway Success of Fashion Week

8 Slays a Week: The Runway Success of Fashion Week

Whether you’re a lifelong subscriber to Vogue or someone who wouldn’t recognise a catwalk star if they fell over them due to their ridiculously sized Vivienne Westwood platform heels we’re all well aware of the bi-annual buzz caused by ‘Fashion week’. But did you ever wonder how it all works, where they actually happen and why everyone wears sunglasses indoors? Well fear not because British Attire are here to help navigate you past the paparazzi, show you who to air kiss and who and who to jab with your Ozempic needle before sitting you down next to Anna Wintour for our whistle stop guide to fashion weeks.

If we were being really comprehensive then this article would be several thousand words long and cover every event from Batho Fashion Week in Botswana through to iD Dunedin Fashion Week in New Zealand. Instead we’re going to focus on the big hitters that tend to attract all the press, controversy and talent, alongside some other events that we think are worthy of note. So to kick things off we’re going to look at the ‘big four’ a sequential group of fashion weeks that often last longer than 7 days and are dedicated to ‘ready to wear’ or pret-a-porter as it’s known in somewhat chic-er circles. Focussed primarily on womenswear (though there are menswear and unisex runway shows too) this is where the big money is and also where the press and the industry get their first peek at what will be hitting the stores in six months time. So Autumn/Winter collections are showcased in February whereas Spring/Summer are shown in September, are you still with me? Good, now it's time to put your shades on, turn left as you enter the aeroplane and order a bottle of Bolly as we head for the first in our four fashion destinations to….

New York

Originating back in 1943 when American buyers were unable to travel to fashion due to WWII. New York Fashion week provided a solution to the dilemma whilst also opening up an opportunity for American brands to take part. Considered amongst the fashion cognoscenti as the most polished and star-studded affair of the big four. New York is without a doubt where you’ll see the most A-listers wearing the most bling from the movie and music world as well as fashion. Despite this elitist reputation the Manhattan based shows have also become known for celebrating our differences, with the city’s LGBT fashion design community and drag celebrities both contributing significantly and having a huge impact on the shows. Whilst February 2014 saw Dr. Danielle Sheypuk and Karen Crespo being the first wheelchair-using and quadruple-amputee models respectively to appear at New York Fashion Week. Followed in 2015 by Actress Jamie Brewer who became the first woman with Down syndrome to walk the red carpet at New York Fashion Week. Ok time to hail a yellow cab and head to JFK as we throw a week’s worth of multivitamins into a Birkin bag and head to….

Jamie Brewer at New York Fashion Week 2015

London

Admittedly a little biased, we here at British Attire think that of the Big Four London is undoubtedly the coolest city to host a fashion week. Though ask any attendees who aren’t British their opinion and you’ll discoverthat the sentiment is a universal one, it’s official, London is the capital of COOL. As we’ve spoken about before, the uniquely British take on fashion is a brave and bold one that shows the rest of the world how to do it when it comes to originality. A relative newcomer, the very first London Fashion Week happened in 1984 via the organisational skills of the British Fashion Council and a suggestion from PR legend Lynne Franks. A genuine legend in British fashion PR Lynne you may not be aware of her groundbreaking work with names such as Katherine Hammnet, Harvey Nicholls and Tommy Hilfiger but you may be aware of the main character Edina in sitcom ‘Absolutely Fabulous’ on whom Lynne was apparently based on. As well as being relied upon to host the most rock and roll parties on the planet London is also the where classic British brands like Burberry get to rub shoulders with emerging new talent before anyone else does and often in an avant garde setting. A classic example of this being Alexander McQueen’s first ever runway show that debuted at LFW in September 1993 that started a trend for making front page news and courting controversy. Titled ‘Nihilism’’the show took its inspiration from British punk subculture and featured thin fabrics, low cut designs and models with serious attitude. Forcing journalist Marion Hume of The Independent to describe the collection as "theatre of cruelty" and "a horror show" and thus paving the way for a legendary if tragically short career. OK it’s now time to put down the pint glasses and stop partying as we sober up and make a move towards…

London Fashion Week 1984

Milan

The Italian arm of the Big Four sees the mood take a more serious, elegant turn with more glamour and much less partying going on. It also showcases perhaps more homegrown talent than anywhere else too, with labels like Prada, Versace, Armani, Gucci, D&G, Fendi & Moschino in attendance. This is also the place where the street fashion is often just as impressive as the fits on the runway, with Milan FW really being a ‘Go big or go home’ type of event. Somewhat controversially this large and luxurious approach has also seen the use of fur in many collections over the years despite London FW having banned the use of furs and exotic skins as well as Gucci parent company Kering doing the same. Regardless, Milan is a romantic city that takes fashion incredibly seriously and shows this in the way it turns its stunning Palazzos and beautiful Piazzas into an integral part of its elaborate shows. A real class act, Milan sets the tone perfectly for our final destination on the Big Four tour as we pack our pearls into the overhead luggage and set off in search of…

Moncler's 70th Anniversary Show at Milan Fashion Week 2022

Paris

So if New York is the place for progressive and commercial fashion, London is all about the avant garde and emerging talent and Milan represents luxurious craftsmanship then Paris is all of the above. Paris is the major event where tradition meets modernity, the sublime jumps to the ridiculous and haute couture paves the way for understated chic. Bringing together all the fashion tribes Paris plays host to the biggest fashion house in the world and is the one time during fashion month where all the editors and buyers are all in one location. A real power play, Paris provides a home to Chanel, Celine, Saint Laurent, Chloe, Givenchy and Dior so commands the most attention and the biggest audience. If you’re looking for fashion’s biggest decision makers and serious trend setters then they’re all sat on the front rows of Paris eyeing the models with hawk-like efficiency. The grandeur of the event is matched only by the budgets of the fashion houses too with major celebrities flown in to front campaigns, next level street style and the most opulent dinners and parties being held in literal palaces all over town. Paris also has the final say in what works and what doesn’t, where new trends and style directions seen popping up previously in other cities become either legitimised or mercilessly cast aside. Meaning that if it doesn’t happen in Paris then, it doesn’t happen at all.

Viktor & Rolf’s Spring-Summer collection at Paris Fashion Week 2019

The Smaller Four

Though Paris and the rest of the Big Four still retain their monopoly on deciding the direction of fashion, being able to go online to see what people are wearing as well as buy clothes from anywhere around the world has lessened their impact. It has also perhaps helped to give birth to a number of different Fashion weeks around the world by connecting designers, buyers and press in their own countries and continents. Nowadays there are literally hundreds of them but here’s four we think are worthy of note…

São Paulo

Established in 1993 Sao Paulo FW is Latin America’s largest fashion event as well as the world’s fifth biggest (after the Big Four).Since its inception it has helped to establish Brazil as a major fashion destination whilst launching new talent and drawing attention to important issues such as indigenous rights, climate change, recycling and the diversity gap. More than a trade show, SPFW is a celebration of the country’s soul by providing a global platform to showcase the incredible amount of homegrown talent and unique styles that Brazil has to offer. If it’s good enough for Gisele then it’s good enough for us.

São Paulo Fashion Week

Tokyo

Another location with a fashion week that’s well placed to challenge any of the Big Four to a style showdown is Tokyo. Held in the birthplace of streetwear, this boundary pushing biannual event in the Japanese capital is the largest of its kind in Asia and a world leader in showcasing avant-garde and experimental fashion. Reflecting Japan’s unique cultural heritage too, designers present collections that pay homage to both traditional Japanese craftsmanship as well as characteristically futuristic styles. It’s also the one fashion week where you’re most likely to see the most robots appear on the runway too.

Tokyo Fashion Week

Copenhagen

Whilst it may not be the biggest event in the world, the fact that Copenhagen fashion week is dedicated to sustainable fashion definitely makes it one of the best. To ensure this they have introduced six areas of sustainability that showcasing brands must comply with. Reflecting Denmark’s strong environmental ethos with its iconic design aesthetic the show is also dedicated to actively nurturing the next generation of Danish designers. Maybe one to get the train to rather than flying eh?

Copenhagen Fashion Week

Lagos

As much a part of the culture as their amazing musical output, fashion is serious business in Nigeria. Which is why Lagos annual fashion week is Africa’s largest fashion event. Founded in 2011 by businesswoman and entrepreneur Omoyemi Akerele the aim of the event is to give the Nigerian and wider African fashion industry the international recognition it so richly deserves. Situated in a real melting pot of creative talent Lagos also plays home to ‘Street Souk’ which is Africa's largest streetwear convention. Looks like the ideal place to pick up some rare Afrobeat twelve inches whilst discovering what the real future of fashion looks like.

Lagos Fashion Week

So there you have it, eight fantastic fashion events from around the world that have each in their own way informed the buying decisions behind the very clothes sitting in our wardrobes right now. Whether that’s the subtle shades of that shirt, the length of heel on your favourite pair of shoes or that golden jacket you own with the three foot antelope horns stuck to the shoulders.