The Thread | ArticleIs Good Old Gorpcore Here to Stay

Back in 2017, writer Jason Chen came up with the term ‘Gorpcore’ while writing about the move away from ‘Normcore’ into a more technical outerwear direction in New York fashion blog The Cut. While Normcore was all about wearing chinos, New Balance trainers, and quarter-zip tops in understated palettes like Bill Gates (not to be confused with Dadcore), Gorpcore was a trend that took its inspiration from the hiking world, with GORP being an acronym for a type of trail mix (Good Old Raisins & Peanuts). Given the Big Apple’s long-held appreciation of a down jacket and hiking boots, it’s highly likely that Jason was being a little tongue-in-cheek with this term, but for whatever reason, the name took root, and before long Gorpcore became a buzzword used to describe everything from Virgil Abloh’s decision to dress runway models in Arc’teryx jackets to Justin Timberlake and Jennifer Biel being papped out in Hollywood wearing Haglofs. A monster had truly been created, and it had an adjustable hood and very sturdy footwear.

As Gorpcore has been around for a while now, questions are being asked about the trend’s lifespan, with both buyers and designers anxiously asking, ‘What’s next?’ The simple, Google-able answer to this would be that ‘Quiet Nature’ is taking over from Gorpcore, albeit at something of a glacial pace. Which basically means that things are going to stay pretty much the same, albeit with the bold colour palettes and big logos dialled down a little (the Japanese brand Goldwin being a prime example of this nuanced aesthetic). However, the real story is that technical outdoor clothing worn in an urban setting isn’t really a trend at all. It’s been around since the early 1980s, and therefore it’s not going anywhere in the foreseeable future. While lockdown may well have introduced several generations to the joys of Gore-Tex, dressing for the great outdoors is a lifestyle, not a fad.

Early Advert for Nike OCG

For reference, Nike started a hiking range in the early 1980s, which eventually morphed into their All Conditions Gear label in 1989. While perfectly suited to outdoor activities, the gear looked so good it quickly became a cornerstone of the brand’s streetwear appeal, as well as giving birth to the legendary Lava Dome shoe. At the same time in the UK, the youth had discovered the fun to be had in functional gear, re-appropriating Mountain Equipment down jackets, Sprayway hard shells, and Berghaus fleeces on awayday missions and weekend-long warehouse parties.

Biggie and His Team Wearing Gorpcore

The nineties further solidified the relationship between outdoor brands and youth culture, with pretty much every Mancunian musician worth listening to being snapped in something colourful and waterproof during this time. Meanwhile, the equally influential world of hip hop and graffiti made both The North Face Nuptse and the Arc’teryx Alpha jacket true icons of their respective scenes. Already responsible for making down jackets and technical fabrics fashionable in the 1980s, in 1998 legendary Italian brand C.P. Company released a collection designed to protect the wearer in city-based elements rather than the mountains. The Urban Protection range, with its jackets that converted into sleeping bags and smog masks, became a landmark moment where the lines between form and function had become blurred forever more.

Vintage Piece by CP Company

It’s probably worth mentioning that the aforementioned lockdown played an important part in opening up a new audience to the appeals of outdoor gear, as millions of people around the world sought solace in the hills and mountains for the first time. A unique event that left a lasting impression on many, who still kept up their weekly hikes and trail runs long after the masks had been consigned to the bin. So, while we may not see any more headline-grabbing collabs between the likes of The North Face and Gucci, Maison Margiela and Salomon, or Palace and Berghaus, when it comes to staying stylish in the city, good old ‘Gorpcore’ is here to stay.